Here you will find some top tips for handling and cleaning bikes

General Practices for Handling Bikes

While you are at Ride Clean you will be handling bikes of all shapes and sizes. The guidelines here are designed to give you a framework from which you can use to give you some general best practices, but there will always be exceptions and there will be a degree to which you need to use your own judgement and problem solving abilities to adapt accordingly.

There are British Standards that govern the compliance of the manufacturer of bicycles so that they are as safe as is practical. The tests done are designed to ensure strength and durability of individual parts as well as the bicycle as a whole. Bear in mind that these standards are based on normal use of a bike and do not account for retrofitting of parts that sometimes will be seen when parts of bikes are combined from older frames and components.

***If you are ever in doubt then refer to manufactures guidelines and that is the same advice I would give to any customer.***

You will handle a wide range of bicycles in different states of condition and it is critical you are always mindful that you are responsible for informing owners if you see anything that concerns the safety of the rider.

Some of the best practices below will overlap with the Health & Safety Guidelines but it is worth stressing the importance of being alert and focused when handling bikes for your safety and that of the owners.

Different Bikes

While working at Ride Clean you will work on a variety of bikes but all bikes broadly function in the same way and have the same key components. Some categories you are likely to see:

• Road bikes

• Hybrid bikes

• City bikes

• Gravel bikes

• MTB

• Single Speed bikes

• Folding bikes

• Cargo bikes

• Children's bikes

Lifting a Bicycle

When lifting a bicycle you must always consider the space you are standing within and who may be around you, also make sure the floor is clear of rubbish and liquid to avoid any chance of slips or falls.

Observe the technique described in the Health & Safety Guidelines for lifting, this will be especially important when you are lifting heavy bikes that may have extras such as baskets, child’s seat, racks and mudguards, all of which can change the distribution of weight across the bicycle.

Before you lift a bicycle, PLEASE check the seat post is securely fitted into the seat tube. This is critical as you will be securing the bike into the bike stand with the bike stand and if this isn’t secure the result will be a bike that slips and falls to the ground, something no one wants to experience, least of all when you have a customer in front of you.

***Top Tips***

If you notice the seat post is low and inside the seat tube and therefore you have no space to grip the seat post with the clamp of the bike stand then the trick is to

1. Mark the seat post height with some insulation tape.

2. Loosen the bolt that holds the seat post securely and raise the seat post to an adequate height, there is a maximum level mark on seat posts, you must not exceed this and usually you will be far within this limit.

3. Now you have adequate space to clamp the seat post.

In general you will find that it makes most sense to lift a bike from a central sturdy point such as the seat tube. This will give you an even place where the bike will be balanced when you lift off the floor.

The reason for clamping bikes into the stand by the seat post is for several reasons:

1. A central place on the bike that balances the weight

2. If you were to damage the seat post while clamping the bike as seat post is much easier and cheaper to replace than an entire frame. But be VERY careful with Carbon Seat Posts as they are more delicate, if you are worried then you can always use a rag to protect the seat post before you clamp it into the stand. Do not over-tighten the clamp on the bike stand as you can crush the carbon seat posts.

Once you have lifted the bike into the bike stand and clamped the seat post, tighten this to an appropriate level so that it is neither slipping while ensuring you have not applied excess pressure to the bike.

***Top Tip***

If you find that you have a bicycle that is very heavy or you are unable to extend the seat post to clamp the bike into the bike stand (this could be due to a seized bolt), a cargo bike, or non-uniform cycle. We are still able to clean and lift the rear wheel from the ground to be able to clean. In this case the A-Frame becomes very useful as a bike stand. The bike will not be at an idea height to work like a stand but it gives you some access to clean the bike and remove wheels. Just be mindful that you bend your knees when working low rather than prolonged time with your back bent at an awkward angle.

Visual Checks

When we handle bikes at Ride Clean it is always worth keeping your eyes wide open and the more bikes you see the more you will build experience. Often there are clues about the condition of the bike just from close inspection. For example if you notice scratch marks that are consistent on one side of the bike on the frame, handlebar grips, derailleur then it could indicate some kind of force to the drive side of the bike, maybe the derailleur has also been bent. The amount of damage will usually point to the kind of force or fall that the bike has sustained. People do not always tell you the full picture and it is worth keeping this in mind so you do not end up with complaints.

Before you start a job it is a good idea to give the bike a visual check for any obvious abnormalities. Then as you work on the bike you will inspect certain areas more closely.

***Top Tips***

Things to pay close attention to are:

• Cracks in the frame

• Bubbling of paint work which can indicate issues beneath the paintwork with the frame

• Any abnormalities in the frame that seem unusual, run your hand over the frame as you work on the bike as sometimes it is easier to feel than see things

• Wheels are true and run symmetrically

• Feel the rims of wheels and keep an eye for any scratches/cracks on rims that look suspect. A wheel that has a fault can fail and cause real damage no matter what speed you are travelling at

• Its also a good idea to look at the setup of the bike in terms of the groupset- more on the different types later, ideally you want things to match in terms of manufacture as they are designed to work together. Lots of combinations are possible but there are some that simply are not compatible and just noticing this can help explain why things are not working perfectly for a rider. Eg mixing of Shimano groupsets is possible but may result in slight niggles, but mixing Shimano and Campag is usually incompatible.

If there are major concerns from a safety perspective then it is worth noting these down, but usually it is just a matter of giving you a chance to familiarise yourself with the bike you will be working on and have an overview before you start to clean.

Removing Wheels

When performing a Deep Clean you are required to remove the wheels, bear in mind you need to be aware of the type of brakes and gears on bike before you start to remove the wheels.. Removing wheels can be tricky and you always want to make sure you are as time efficient as possible.

*** Top Tips***

• Brakes: ensure brakes have been released, where relevant. If you find the wheel has a larger tyre and won’t easily slip out then you can always deflate the tyre to help remove it.

• Gears: if the bike has gears then it is a good idea to put the bike in a gear ratio that allows for maximum chain slack so it make sit easier to remove the wheel and you know exactly which sprocket to replace it in later

• Quick release: make sure the chain has been put into the smallest sprocket as the chain will have maximum slack and therefore much easier to remove

• Bolted axles: loosen axles evenly, loosen the drive side a little, then the non-drive side and continue with a little in each side until you can remove the wheel from the dropouts.

• Thur-axels: these can take a variety of forms, some require allen keys to loosen them and some have their own quick release. You will need to fully remove the axel in order to remove the wheel. It can be a good idea to replace the axle when cleaning so you do not drop it/misplace it/forget which was it is inserted.

• Locked wheel nuts: some people have special ’keys’ that are needed to release the axles of their wheels, this is an anti-theft device. Some are more generic and have a pentagon shape (we carry an allen key that can loosen this) others are unique and require the key from the owner. It is good to check this before the owner leaves otherwise you will not be able to remove the wheels which will be an issue for a deep clean. If the owner does not have the key on them or in some cases doesn’t even realise they have this fitted, kindly explain it is no problem and you will work around this, but explain why you won’t be able to remove the wheels, but will do your best. ****Remember to return the key afterwards if they give it to you. A good idea can be to stick it to the bike with some electrical tape as a reminder****

• When you have a single speed bike that has both a rear wheel that has the option to be switched between having a fixed single gear (no coasting) and a single speed free wheel that allows for coasting, make sure you know exactly which one was being used by the rider, mark with electrical tape if needed. This is VERY IMPORTANT as experience of riding is very different!

Operating the bike while in the stand

When handling bikes in the stand make sure you are wearing your correct PPE and that you have a clear work area with no members of the public/customers in the vicinity. Always be aware of colleagues too.

***Top Tips***

Things to pay particular attention to:

• Sharp edges such as frayed cable ends

• Rotating and moving elements of the bike (wheels, cranks, chain, chainrings, cassette). Keep all fingers and tools well away from any rotating object. Ensure wheels have been completely stopped rotating before you do any further wok on the bike.

• Pay particular attention to rotors on wheels as these pose an added hazard especially when the wheel is in motion.

• Clear up all spills as soon as they happen to prevent slip hazards

• Replace or tools/equipment and keep a clear workspace to prevent trip hazards

• Use chain keeper wheels on chains to avoid the chain rubbing on the frame. These are inserted as as a replacement for a real cassette. This video shows you how - use on Deep Cleans and Deluxe Cleans

Tips for Cleaning

The main methods of cleaning have been explained in How to do a Clean & Care Service, How to do a Deep Clean Service and How to do a Deluxe Clean. These tips are extra tips to help you become more efficient.

***Top Tips***

• When spraying the splosh wash think about the direction you are spraying. You do not want to spray water onto colleagues or customers. You do not want to spray water on to other people’s property. You do not want to spray water on electronic devices such as IPad/phone or bags. It is good to direct the hose towards the ground and be far far enough away that you do not aim directly as areas with bearings (Bottom bracket/hubs)

• Always keep a visual check on cables that can get dirty. If you have time then you can wipe these clean and use some multi purpose lube to help.

• Always avoid getting dirt on disk brake pads as this will very likely cause rubbing and squealing of brakes. Cover up pads with clean rags before you start work on a bike.

• Use brake blocks when removing wheels of bikes with disk brakes (if no formal brake blocker then use folded up paper or card)

• If you have stubborn dirt on the bike then you can use neat bike cleaner on a rag and then use the rags to lean the dirt away. You can also spray diluted bike cleaner on a rag and use this rather than spraying on the frame.

• Remember to clean underneath the saddle, a brush can be helpful to reach these parts.

• Disk brake cleaner can have many uses, you can spray onto the rotors to clean them, see video here. You can also spray onto a rag and use the rag to wipe away marks on a frame and old stickers from bike races.

• Use little brushes to help get into the gaps between the jockey wheels

• When ‘painting’ degreaser onto the chain, think about where you do this. If you paint a chain that is flopping about it is likely that you will miss areas. It is better to do it near the font derailleur and chain rings where you have a firm surface to work against.

• When cleaning wheels, use the valves as a guide as a start and end point

• When cleaning and degreasing chains, use the quick link as a guide for the start and end point

• The 'credit card' method for cleaning cassettes - take an old credit card or similar (you will find these inside tool boxes) wrap a clean cloth around the credit card and inset between sprockets on the cassette to wipe away stubborn dirt and grime. It is very handy when doing a Clean and Care Service.

Tips for replacing wheels

***Top Tip***

• When replacing wheels after performing a Deep Clean, it is worth replacing the wheels while the bike is in the bike stand and tightening the skewers, finger tight. Then removing the bike from the bike stand and putting the bike on the ground, loosening the skewers and ensuring the wheel is in straight and square before tightening fully up. The reason for this is that you are now using gravity to make sure the wheel is fully inserted. It also reminds you to make sure the wheels are fitted tightly - ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL!

• When replacing wheels into single speed bikes you need to make sure that the wheel is inserted square and straight as well as adequate tension in the chain. Often there will be an option to make small adjustments to the chain tension with the chain tension screw.

• Remember if you're dealing with a single speed bike that that has the option to be switched between having a fixed single gear (no coasting) and a single speed free wheel that allows for coasting, make sure you know exactly which one was being used by the rider. Replace this as the rider bought it to you. If you marked it with electrical tape remove this now. This is VERY IMPORTANT as the experience of riding is very different!

Tips for Polishing and Protecting

***Top Tips***

• Use the polish and paint restorer carefully, these products are strong and must be handled with care. Be as light touch as possible - the aim is to remove scratches and add polish to a frame, but overuse of these products will damage the frame, logos and paintwork. BE CAREFUL!!!!

• Use Polish before paint restorer

• Polish for GLOSS ONLY

• Avoid areas that have logos printed on them either on the frame or components

• Avoid any braking surfaces or body contact points (brake levers, handlebars, saddle, pedals)

• Apply in straight lines using a clean rag

• Buff-off with a microfibre towel

• Always apply polish after using paint restorer

• Sealant protection used as final step to protect the frame from water, dirt and grime. Suitable for gloss, matt & satin finishes

• Apply, and leave on frame for as long as possible, before buffing off with microfibre towel

• Avoid contaminating brake callipers, braking surfaces (discs/rims), and all body contact (brake levers, handlebars, saddle, pedals)

Tips for finishing touches

When you have finished cleaning the bike you will have a few Finishing Touches to make so the bike is ready for the rider.

Chain Lube: use the correct lube for the conditions. Wet lube for wet conditions and dry/professional lube for dry conditions and inside riding on a turbo trainer

***Top Tips***

• Apply the lube to the bottom part of the chain (away from the frame) so that it doesn’t drip straight onto the clean frame

• Wipe excess lube off with a dry rag

• Use professional grade lube for bikes that are going to be used on rollers and turbo trainers, it won’t splatter on the floor inside, but still keep parts well lubricated

• Run through the gears to coat each sprocket with a layer of lubricant

• Use the quick link as a guide for the start and end point when lubing a chain if available

Chain checker Tool: is used to determine the degree to which the chain has worn, commonly referred to as ‘chain stretch’. In actual fact it is the rollers that have been worn down but it gives the appearance that the chain has become longer and stretched. When checking use the 0.5 measure first, if this doesn’t slide all the way through the gap between rollers then the chain is not worn.

If the chain checker tool sits down between the rollers at 0.5 then check at 0.75 (meaning it has worn even more). At 0.5 it is worth changing the chain to save the cassette and chainrings and prolong the life (the chain is cheaper to replace than a cassette). At 0.75 then it is time for a new chain and cassette.

You may find that the customer mentions that some of the gears are slipping and this can sometimes be the result of a worn chain.

***Top Tips***

• It is worth checking in a couple of places along the length of the chain as it can be just one link that is particularly worn or not worn.

• It is also always worth just looking at the chain to see if it is hanging low and looks too long for the chainset. The chain needs to be long enough that it can extend to the extent of the gear ratio but beyond this it will get saggy and then the rider will find issues with changing gear.

Final Touches

Leave in a middle gear so easy for customer to ride off

Check tyres are are in correct orientation for rotation

Remove electrical tape if you have marked the seat post height

Replace accessories (lights/bottles/saddle bags etc)